Of Quality and Excellence
Consisting out of more than 45 pieces, and more than 110 individual operations, every single shoe is crafted with meticulous attention to detail. The skill of numerous craftsmen is required, each having mastered a particular step in the process in order to fashion a pair of shoes.
A multitude of materials are used during the shoe construction process, each having their own unique benefits. Leather, although more expensive, is one of the only materials that assures both long-term wear and breathability, vital for good footwear.
Additionally, the natural leather we use is biodegradable, reducing the amount of waste significantly. It’s thickness is adapted to increase flexibility of the children’s shoe.
Leather is one of the most natural materials that can be used to craft shoes. Not only does it get a richer patina, colour, with age, the unique property of being both flexible and breathable is nearly unmatched. As an added bonus, it is entirely biodegradable if no plastic coating is added.
The edges of the material is skived, meaning trimmed down in thickness. This is applied to areas where multiple parts overlap to make sure one panel transitions smoothly into the other. The result is a smoother and fluent upper. As material is removed in this process, there is no room for error.
Stitching Upper and Lining
The different panels are bonded together along their skived edges by the stitchers, cucitrice. To assure breathability it is vital that a minimum of glue is used on the uppers. After attaching the panels with a light glue, they are hammered by hand to make sure they are secured together tightly and to maintain their shape.
Shoe stitchers: One of the most delicate stitching processes is the stitching of leather shoes. It requires multiple years of experience to be fluent with the needle. A stitcher that is used to sewing clothing won’t be able to make a shoe without relearning the craft. People who are proficient in this art are becoming rarer every year.
To give support to the foot and maintain the shape of the shoe, reinforcements are added at the heel and toecap area in between the lining. The upper is then pulled over an ironing last, which is preheated, and pressed to fully shape the heel section and to iron out any creases.
Once the heel has been shaped, the last is prepared with our Texon Flex midsole, a unique property of STONES and BONES shoes. After the midsole is nailed onto the last, the upper is pulled and stretched over the last, both by hand and machine. This shapes the shoe accordingly and prepares it for the soling stage.
Flexible midsole: Introduced in children’s shoes by STONES and BONES, the Texon Flex midsole accommodates the bending of the foot in the right and natural location, around the ball of the foot. A shoe should not flex in the middle or at the heel area.
Marriage of Upper and Outsole.
Finally, the sole is married to the upper. Depending on the design of the shoe, only with glue or additionally with outsole stitching. Guided by hand, cup soles are stitched through both the upper and outsole, securing everything tightly together.
STONES and BONES cup soles: Most of the STONES and BONES cup soles have a reinforced toe area to protect the front of the shoe. Even though they are not indestructible, they can sustain more rough wear than our other types of soles and are perfect to accommodate the day-in day-out playing of children.
Brushing and Burnishing
To both enhance the esthetics and improve durability, the shoes are nurtured with natural creams and waxes at the finishing stage, or finisaggio, by the shoe shiner. Great depth of colour can be achieved by polishing and sometimes burnishing, the latter creating nuanced darker areas on the upper.
Our unique vegetal tanned insole is added, with a latex cushion on the heel for extra comfort. Even though it seems quite stiff at the start, the reason why we use a leather insole is because after some time it starts to mimic the shape of the foot, creating a unique imprint which provides even more comfort over time as it becomes more subtle.
In the end, there is always more than meets the eye when creating STONES and BONES shoes. Both passion and expertise flow throughout, culminating in unique designs and wearable creations, ready to be enjoyed by refined taste.